California is probably the state in the US that I was most excited to experience (mainly due to years of watching The OC) and if you've got a visit coming up - this is the post for you!
Whilst there was no Seth Cohen on this trip (sob), there was fun in abundance, from the moment we hired a car in San Francisco until we left California for Nevada. Here's every place we went, with recommendations for Greek fries, movie museums, camping and more.
Whilst there was no Seth Cohen on this trip (sob), there was fun in abundance, from the moment we hired a car in San Francisco until we left California for Nevada. Here's every place we went, with recommendations for Greek fries, movie museums, camping and more.
San Francisco
Stay
Hayes Valley Inn - a little worn around the edges and the Standard Room could've had a bigger bed (Will and I are both tall) but overall, lovely stay! Don't let the shared bathroom put you off - they're spotless, we never had to wait for other guests and there are gorgeous sinks in the room so you can get your seven-step skincare routine on in private. The location is superb - we walked everywhere minus one Uber home from Fisherman's Wharf, and a plethora of restaurants are situated literally outside the front door.
Eat
Souvla - Greek food of restaurant quality that's served in a matter of minutes, we went back three times - in my opinion the salads (huge, fyi) are better than the wraps, definitely get the Greek fries and there's always a queue out the door for their frozen Greek yoghurt.
Brenda's French Soul Food - you'll want to come here with a healthy appetite as the menu is extensive and the portions ain't stingy! They do a real big dirty breakfast - think secret recipe fried chicken, Louisiana cuisine and grits. If you're vegan, a few of their dishes (salads, sandwiches etc) are centred around this blackened cajun tofu that's rather divine.
a Mano - with the star of the show being their hand-made pasta that's created fresh every day, head here for their cacio e pepe or my favourite, the parsley tagliatelle. Pasta portions aren't huge (at least compared to many other spots) so you may want to order one of their delicious antipasti dishes - or talk your partner into getting the asparagus, green garlic, stracciatella and lemon pizza so you can nick a slice. Not that I did that, or anything...
Caffe Sport - we really wanted to go to the famous Tony's Pizza Napoletana, but the waitress was mega rude so we cancelled our reservation and walked in search of somewhere just as delicious (but hopefully a bit friendlier!) - and that's exactly what we found at this Sicilian restaurant. The elaborate interior and polaroids of celebrities who've dined there over the years mean your eyes will never get bored once inside, and your tastebuds won't be bored either. I had the risotto ai funghi porcini on the chef's recommendations and oh my goodness - the creamiest, richest risotto I've ever had! It's big enough to share, so maybe order one between two and an insalata caprese on the side.
Caffe Sport - we really wanted to go to the famous Tony's Pizza Napoletana, but the waitress was mega rude so we cancelled our reservation and walked in search of somewhere just as delicious (but hopefully a bit friendlier!) - and that's exactly what we found at this Sicilian restaurant. The elaborate interior and polaroids of celebrities who've dined there over the years mean your eyes will never get bored once inside, and your tastebuds won't be bored either. I had the risotto ai funghi porcini on the chef's recommendations and oh my goodness - the creamiest, richest risotto I've ever had! It's big enough to share, so maybe order one between two and an insalata caprese on the side.
Do
Fisherman's Wharf - a must-do in San Fran, the centre of the city's world-famous fishing district is packed with things to do: fine dining, cheap eats on the boardwalk, views for days, boat trips, arcade games, variety performances - it's hard not to have fun there, and it'd be my number one recommendation if you're visiting as a family with children.
Alcatraz - my only advice is: book ahead. And that's because we didn't, so we couldn't go...
Mrs Doubtfire House - I'm afraid that the 'Meg Says Do' section of this post is rather lacking, as we were seriously suffering after an 18-hour time difference from New Zealand and felt like zombies with hangovers. Going to visit the house from Mrs Doubtfire (my #1 childhood favourite) was top of my list but jet-lag got in the way, so go and wave hi to good old Euphegenia for me, will you?
Truckee
Stay
Airbnb (Luxury Studio Condo) - under £60 a night (use this link for money off) and only ten minutes from Truckee's centre, we stayed here on Will's 25th. The host was kind enough to give us a late checkout when our heads were throbbing after Will's birthday night out, and I can't even tell you how comfy the memory foam bed is! It's one of those Airbnb's where they've thought of everything, so if you've forgotten your toothpaste or your bottle of wine isn't a screw-top - they've got you covered.
Eat
Moody's Bistro Bar & Eats - when the sun is shining, head to the perfect lunch spot that is Moody's - the staff are anything but moody btw, total rays of sunshine! - and choose from their range of pizzas (The Forage was my favourite) or sizeable burgers. Whilst my veggie take on beef carpaccio with beets was really yummy, the portion was minuscule and I had to make an emergency order of their truffle & parmesan fries. Poor me, hey!
Pianeta - we made Will's birthday dinner reservation here (special thanks to Mum & Dad Says, who paid for it!) and it's a must if you're in Truckee with your significant other. The perfect date night restaurant with low lighting and candles, once you've ordered a bottle of wine (we had a Valpolicella Ripasso red, highly recommend) the server opens it at your table and leaves you the cork to make a wish and add to the collection that's literally coming through the wall behind you. Our pasta dishes (aglio e olio and bolognese) weren't the best we've had, but the salad and olives we had to start were truly something special!
Squeeze In - if "the best omelettes on the planet" doesn't tempt you to try this joint, maybe the queue of locals and visitors alike waiting outside for a table will. The menu is so big that having to wait actually proves to be a good thing, as it gives you time to read the thing! Let me narrow it down for you: their Mexican dishes are great so go for the burritos, huevos rancheros, chilaquiles section. They also have an entire vegan section - big plus!
Do
Donner Lake - known as the Jewel of the Sierra, there are a ton of water-based activities here (swimming, fishing, sailing etc) and plenty of hikes and walks that'll keep you busy. Also visit the Donner Memorial State Park where you can camp or simply learn about the history of the area at the Visitor Centre. Keep an eye out for chipmunks - so cute!
Dressed Boutique - with polka-dot wrap dresses and on-trend leopard pieces in the window, we actually made a special trip back to Truckee from Tahoe City just so I could have a proper browse in here. Think ZARA meets Mango.
Pastime Club - after leaving Pianeta we heard a band playing here, then the 70+ lead singer spilled out onto the pavement still strutting his stuff - and we were sold! We ended up dancing on the bar to What's Up by 4 Non Blondes at 2am and it was fab.
Pastime Club - after leaving Pianeta we heard a band playing here, then the 70+ lead singer spilled out onto the pavement still strutting his stuff - and we were sold! We ended up dancing on the bar to What's Up by 4 Non Blondes at 2am and it was fab.
Tahoe City
Stay
Mother Nature's Inn - a pet-friendly choice located just over the road from stunning Lake Tahoe, the owners welcome you to come and "hibernate" in this cosy and charming inn. I felt like I'd stepped back in time (in a good way) with all of the pine furniture and kitsch decorations! Get the King Room if you can - maybe I've been backpacking for too long but it's one of the comfiest beds I've ever stayed in.
Eat
Bridgetender - at Fanny Bridge (I'm not laughing, you are) you'll find this local-filled tavern that claims to have the best burgers in Lake Tahoe! Will put their blue cheese & bacon cheeseburger to the test and gave it a thumbs-up, plus another for the delicious waffle fries (that I snaffled at least ten of). With new specials every day and happy hour from 4.15-6.15, you'll be as happy as the giant cowboy smoking a pipe on the roof of the restaurant.
Fire Sign Cafe - our go-to breakfast/brunch spot! If you like eggs, you'll love it here - pretty much the entire menu is dedicated to omelettes, scrambles, benedicts or 'how you like 'em cooked'. I had the tostado one day which was delicious but way too much - I could barely eat half and it came with a big basket of chips with homemade salsa too. After that Will and I shared meals at Fire Sign and there was always enough for two - great for budgeting!
Do
For a 'minimum effort with maximum payout' job, do the Eagle Rock Hiking Trail Homewood - I did it in Birkenstocks that were giving me a killer blister (plus I'm not fit in the slightest!) and it only took 20 minutes to reach incredible views at the summit! Emerald Bay State Park isn't far and again - hikes fo' beginners with views fo' days.
Yosemite
Stay
Tamarack Lodge & Resort - it's worth at least a night's stay in Mammoth Lakes for the amazing sitting room in this lodge alone - it's a total pleasure to sink into one of the armchairs and read your book in front of the roaring fire! As well as lake views and a whole host of nearby activities like skiing, scenic gondola rides and snowcat tours, there's also a free continental breakfast to start your day and an in-house restaurant to end it.
Eat
Slocum's Bar & Grill - it snowed whilst we were in Yosemite and this was the perfect place to warm up in front of the fire with a nice glass of red. I had their ultimate mac and cheese which was satisfyingly stringy without being overly rich. Get the smaller portion, mind!
Do
Wild Willy's Hot Springs - an Irish couple in Queenstown told us about these free hot springs - their exact words were "you'll keep thinking you've gone the wrong way but just keep going, you'll get there!" (which is actually rather good life advice isn't it, thanks cute couple) and it's a must if you're in Mammoth Lakes. It's basically a natural hot tub in the middle of nowhere with stunning mountain views - wear your swimming costume under your clothes (there's nowhere to get changed) or just forgo the clothes, and go at offbeat times if you want it all to yourselves. Twenty minutes in the car will take you to Convict Lake, also!
Stay
El Rancho Motel - you know in Crossroads when Britney and the gals rock up to that motel and Kit's all like "I'm not sleeping here"... well, I was Kit when we first walked into our room here! I was ready to turn and run from the hills when I saw an unmade bed and someone else's lipstick on the coffee cup, but it turned out that we'd been given the wrong keys and we were staying in a room that had, y'know... actually been cleaned. Nothing special, but fine for one night and you get that authentic motel experience!
Eat
Pupfish Cafe - if you're looking for a cute, non-crowded place to get really good cup of Joe - come here. Their menu has your classic American eggs, bacon and waffles etc but they also have an entire avocado toast section... yup! Plus you'll find it at the back of a lovely bookshop, so you can breathe in that glorious new book smell with your morning coffee.
Do
Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest - this was one of my favourite days of our entire trip! You've probably heard of the Giant Sequoia trees? Well, these babies are a whole millennium older than those, and are in fact the oldest living trees in the world. Take a little picnic, 'aww' out loud at all of the chipmunks and spend a few hours walking around and learning about this interesting, majestic forest!
Lone Pine
Stay
Lone Pine Campground - it was around this point in our trip that we realised just how expensive America is to backpack around, so we hauled-ass to Walmart and bought ourselves a load of camping equipment. It felt like a lot of money at the checkout, but compared to staying in hotels every night? Bargain. Campgrounds have such a cute sense of community and this one is no different - not even the warning signs about bears could stop us from smiling as we played card games round the fire.
Eat
Alabama Hills Cafe & Bakery - bring your appetite, as these portions are big and you'll absolutely want a loaf of their homemade jalapeño bread to go! I had the vegan breakfast which restored my faith in ordering a vegan dish and not getting wafer-thin slices of beetroot topped with walnuts - it was probably big enough for two and came with a ton of delicious fresh fruit.
Do
Museum Of Western Film History - killing time before heading to Death Valley led us to find this gem - turns out that Lone Pine is Hollywood's favourite filming destination, who knew?! Every great Western you can think of was made against the backdrop of the Sierra Nevada and the Alabama Hills, and directors of many modern movies brought their filmstars and crews to Lone Pine also. Star Wars, Indiana Jones, Iron Man, Gladiator - the list is endless and this is a great way to spend an afternoon.
Movie Road - if you're gonna take my last suggestion then you've gotta do this, too - not far from the film museum is Movie Road, where you can visit the exact filming location of movies like Django Unchained. You can totally picture the characters there and it's clear to see why directors love it - it's otherworldly and full of photo opportunities!
Death Valley
Stay
Sunset Campground - a large, open campsite with toilet facilities and running water etc, this seemingly in-the-middle-of-nowhere spot is great for campers. Most people there are in RVs and campervans, so be prepared if you're in a tent like we were - we arrived in May and the conditions were crazy! It took twenty minutes to knock just one peg into the rock-hard ground and a sandstorm threatened to rip away not only our tent, but our car. We came back the following (less windy) evening and camped there successfully, but on our first attempt we gave up and drove to...
Pahrump Nugget - with The Oasis across the road being fully booked, we made the drive to Pahrump and stayed in our first ever casino. If you find yourself in a pickle in Death Valley or you want to stay somewhere that isn't ridiculously expensive, this is a reliable spot with 'ooh, I really didn't expect it to be this nice!' rooms and 24/7 dining.
Eat
Timbisha Tacos - Death Valley isn't exactly teeming with restaurant options (I think there's only around eight places that you can get food) and we chose this mega-casual Native American taco shop. They do a traditional fry bread with taco toppings, burritos and Hawaiian shaved ice with more flavours than you can shake a stick at!
Do
Artist's Palette - on your way into or out of the National Park, make sure you take ten minutes to do the drive here, it's well worth it! Put a great song on the stereo (we went for Sedona by Houndmouth), crank up the volume and fly through the rock formations. It's the craziest, most winding road to the point where you genuinely feel like you're on a rollercoaster in your car!
Badwater Basin - yes, it's just as cool as it sounds! Make sure you see the salt flats, marvel at the incredible natural beauty of Inyo County and take a selfie with the Sea Level sign (the basin is the lowest point in Northern America).
We managed to squeeze so much into this two-week road trip and it was such an adventure - if I had to pick one highlight then it'd be our beautiful day at the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, although every day was an adventure in itself. I'd love to return to California someday to see Los Angeles and San Diego!
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